" Even though costume has been dressing the performing body since the ancien world, methods for its analysis are yet to be full explored. "Performance costume" draws on the experience of internatinally renowned academic researchers and hands-on theatre, film and experimental performance pratitioners to set out analternative vision for exploring costume across time and place. From the actress on the Victorian stage to deseign for high quality contemporary TV, this text opens up a awarness and dignity for costume to be considered in and its own terms.

Recent research has connected the study of costume with theories of the body and embodiment, desing practices ans artistic and other forms of collaboration in vital new ways; like fashion and dress, costume is now viewed as an area dynamic social significance and not simply as a passiver reflector of a preconceived social state or practice. Offering new approaches to research on costume, and exploring a wide variety of cultures, settings and performance contexts, " Performance Costume" reveals fresh insights into insights into the better-known frames of historical, theoretical, practuce-based and archival into costume for performance, and considers it as an active agent for performance-making and a material embodiment of ideas shaped through collaborative creative work.

A genuinely groundbreaking expansion of the field of costume studies, this is an invaluable text for students and researchers of costume, performance, theatre and film studies and design." 4e de couverture

Contents

- Foreword from Maija Pekkanen and Simona Rybáková

- Introduction : Activating Costume : A New Approach to Costume for Performance / Sofia Pantouvaki and Peter McNeil

Section 1 : Interpreting and Curating Costume
1.1 - Real or Virtual ? Studying Historical Costume Drawings and Sketches / Margaret Mitchell
1.2 - Cooking : Studying Film Costume Design / Drake Stutesman
1.3 - Displaying Stage Costumes : Exhibitions at the National Center for Stage Costume, France / Delphine Pinasa
1.4 - Cross-Culturak Costume Research : Beijing Opera Costume / Alexandra B. Bonds
1.5 - Reading Maltese Canival Costumes / Vicki Ann Cremona
1.6 - Curating Costume : Reflection / Aoife Monks

Section 2 : Personalities in Costume
2.1 - Costume Centre STage : Re-membering Allen Terry (1847-1928) / Veronica Isaac
2.2 - 'On and Off the Stage' Costume, Dress and locating the Actor-Manager's Identity, 1870-1900 / Helen Margaret Walter
2.3 - Extravagance, Expense and Notoriety in Costume : Gaby Deskys and Parisian Modernity on the American Stage, 1911-14
2.4 - A Foreign Affair On and Off Screen / Christina M. Johnson
2.5 - Recording Costume Design in the Theatre and Parformance Collections at the V&A : Vivien Leigh and Oliver Messel / Keith Lodwick

Section 3 : Costume Voices, Costume histories
3.1 - The First Premiere and Other Stories : Towards a History of the Costume Design Profession in Finland / Joanna Weckman
3.2 - Spinning Yarns : Locating, Learning and Listening in the Social World of Popular Hindi Film Costume Production / Clare M. Wilkinson
3.3 - Hollywood Costume : A Journey to Curation / Deborah Nadoolman Landis
3.4 - 'The Gatting of Wisdom' : Learning from Anna Senior / Jennifer Gall
3.5 - Design for Television : Costume and Contemporary Clothing / Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko

Section 4 : Costume and the Body
4.1 - The Body as the Matter of Costume : A Phenomenological Practice / Donatella Berbieri
4.2 - The Body as Site : Interdisciplinary Approches to Dress in/as Performance / Jessica Bugg
4.3 - 'Aware-Wearing' : A somatic Costume Design Methodology for Performance / Sally E. Dean
4.4 - Costuming the Foot : A Designer/Performer's Personal Artistic Methods / Alexandra Murray-Leslie
4.5 - Costume and the Mondernist Body : Fashioning August Strindberg / Viveka Kjellmer

Section 5 : Costume and Collaborative Work
5.1 - Building Costumes, Building Langage in the Costume Design Process / Madeline Taylor
5.2 - Fitting Threads : Embodied Conversations in the Costume Design Process / Suzanne Osmond
5.3 - Haptic Descriptions : Costume Design by Gillian Gallow and April Viczko / Natalie Rewa
5.4 - The Costume Designer's 'Golden List' of Competence / Christina Lindgren

Section 6 : Costume and Social Impact
6.1 - Exploring Rossini's Berta : Young Audiences and the Agency of Opera Costume / Sofia Pantouvaki
6.2 - Designing Hospital Clown Costumes : Psychological and Social Benefits for Finnish Children's Healthcare / Merja Väisänen
6.3 - Costume of Conflict / Mateja Fajt
6.4 - From Effect to Affect : The Costumed Body and the Autistic Child / Melissa Trimingham
6.5 - Designign Tsunami : Costume Evolution from Documentary to Surrealist / Michiko Kitayama Skinner
6.6 - The Collaborative Process of Costume Creatin : Tavestis in São Paulo / Fausto Viana

Index[-]

"Une étude méthodique de l'évolution de la Mode, tant féminine que masculine, depuis le Moyen Âge jusqu'à nos jours, s'appuyant sur une abondante illustration et replacée dans son contexte historique et psychologique.

Rien n'est plus caractéristique des mœurs et de la mentalité d'une époque que la mode.
Ce n'est pas la seule fantaisie qui transforme nos parures ou dirige nos gouts, mais un ensemble de circonstances historiques et de principes moraux qui, le plus souvent. agissent à notre insu.
Il est donc impossible de dissocier l'histoire du Costume de l'Histoire elle-même, car le costume, en bien des cas, apparait comme l'illustration directe des événements. C'est délibérément que F. van Thienen a choisi le XIIe siècle comme point de départ, car c'est à cette époque, en effet, que le vêtement, se dégageant de la tradition gallo-romaine, s'identifia au raffinement qui se faisait jour chez les rudes guerriers du Moyen Age.
Depuis lors, la Mode ne cesse d'être le vivant reflet de l'air du temps et de notre manière de vivre." -- P. [4] de la couv.

Comprend un index.[-]